How to spend a seductive weekend in Seville

Known for its steamy-hot summers, delicate winters and sultry operatic gypsy heroine Carmen, Seville is a bijou metropolis whose fabulous meals, extraordinary Mudejar, Gothic and Renaissance structure, and unique flamenco rhythms by no means fail to allure and seduce. History oozes by way of its very pores, with historical Moorish partitions, Roman ruins and Baroque church buildings at each flip.

Follow the locals to hole-in-the-wall bars, sip cañas (small glasses) of beer, after which get misplaced wandering the tiny streets of Barrio Santa Cruz, dotted with orange-tree-filled plazas, earlier than resting in a quiet, shady nook on a tiled bench. For a extra genuine expertise, head to boho Macarena or tile-and-gypsy quarter Triana. Then, after nightfall, head up the rooftops to admire the most important Gothic cathedral on this planet and its Moorish-Christian tower from a terrace bar.

For additional Seville inspiration, see our in-depth guides to town’s finest motels, eating places, bars, issues to see and do, and issues to see and do at no cost. If planning an extended journey, uncover our final itinerary in Andalucia right here.

Be swept again in time to King Pedro the Wise’s Mudejar (Christian-Moorish) royal courtroom on the 14th-century Alcazar Palace, with its beautiful ceramic tiles and heavenly gold ceilings. Explore the gardens, dwelling to peacocks, pavilions and swimming pools. Look acquainted? You might have seen it because the Water Gardens of Dorne in Game of Thrones. In summer time they maintain out of doors night-time concert events right here, most likely Seville’s most magical venue, with the grutesco stone wall as a backdrop as moonlight streams by way of the palm timber. Note: entry is free on Monday afternoons. Find extra of town’s finest sights right here.

Then cross Plaza del Triunfo and be wowed – in and out – by Seville Cathedral, the third-largest on this planet. The basilica’s scale is jaw-dropping, with a 40-metre-plus excessive nave and 80 chapels. Be certain to climb up the Giralda belltower, previously the minaret of the mosque which stood right here, for fabulous views over Barrio Santa Cruz. For lunch, reward your self with some divine trendy tapas at close by La Azotea – strive tuna tacos with guacamole or Iberian pork loin with potato and cheese.

Head down Calle San Fernando, stopping off the Royal Tobacco Factory, one of many settings for Seville’s famed Carmen – spot the pinnacle of Colon (Christopher Columbus) on the doorway – and stroll on to Parque Maria Luisa, dwelling to fairly tiled benches, shady corners named after love poets, and luxurious Plaza de España. This huge brick construction, constructed for the 1929 Expo, is a photographer’s dream, with its broad plaza, elliptical partitions, and vibrant ceramics and flowers. Lookout for the statue of architect Anibal Gonzalez, gazing at his creation.

One of Seville’s slickest eating places, Seis, in central Plaza Nueva, ticks all of the containers for décor (jungle-themed with myriad trailing tendrils), service (environment friendly, pleasant employees), and meals (trendy Mediterranean-Asian), in addition to providing very good worth. Start off with a cucumber margarita on the vigorous bar (you’re below a tree cover). Then slide into a comfortable sales space for Peruvian sea bass ceviche or an Iberian pulled pork hotdog.

Finish off your night at rooftop bar EME Catedral Mercer Terraza, the place you possibly can mingle with the sensible crowd, and sip a mojito at eye-level with some gravity-defying flying buttresses.

Head over the river to the bohemian, sailor and ceramic tile neighbourhood of Triana. Start off with a go to to the Museo de Cerámica de Triana, which explains about this native business, together with the well-known azulejos (glazed tiles), stretching again centuries – you’ll have seen luxurious polychromatic examples already, within the Alcazar palace and across the metropolis.

Then pop subsequent door and soak up the sights, smells and sounds of Triana Market, replete with contemporary native produce – do not miss the fabulous fish stalls, with scary-looking seafood, or expert jamon-carvers. Saunter down calle Pureza to Seville’s oldest parish church, Santa Ana, in-built 1266. Look out for the portray of Santa Rufina and Santa Justa, Christian martyrs who have been potters from Triana; town’s patron saints, they’re pictured with the Giralda, which they saved from an earthquake, in keeping with native legend. Find extra of one of the best free issues to do within the metropolis right here.

Back over the river within the San Lorenzo district, enterprise into the cavernous Antigua Abaceria de San Lorenzo, a restaurant/grocery retailer full of eclectic knick-knacks which looks like somebody’s home. Here you’ll eat elbow to elbow with Sevillanos – the menu is conventional native fare, no fancy plating or clever design – tortilla or fried eggs with chorizo and tomato. Find extra of town’s finest eating places right here.

Over on the Alameda de Hercules, centre of bearded hipster-dom, go as much as rooftop bar on the Corner House for a hen’s eye view of different Seville – the terrace gives an unpretentious, laid-back vibe; Aperol spritz is the drink of alternative.

Cross again into the gypsy district and head to Flamenco Esencia on Calle Betis, which has genuine flamenco reveals on an intimate scale – the performers are swishing their skirts inches out of your face. You may even see a neighbour becoming a member of in spontaneously, within the true spirit of flamenco. Have a beer (you get one along with your ticket) and tapas overlooking the river.

Then head down Calle Betis to Embarcadero, a nautical-feel bar with tables nearly on the water. Alternatively, if you happen to really feel impressed to take to the ground your self, return in the direction of Triana Bridge to Lo Nuestro, the place locals follow Sevillanos, an area model of flamenco carried out in pairs on the Spring Fair, to reside music all yr spherical. A gin-tonic gives you the Dutch braveness you want. Find extra of town’s finest bars right here.

Metropol Parasol is Seville’s trendy architectural icon, and the world’s largest picket construction. Consisting of six mushroom-shaped shades (it is identified domestically as Las Setas, the Mushrooms) the 28-metre tall construction homes an archaeological museum; a meals market and bars; and an space for concert events. Take the elevate as much as the panoramic walkway with spectacular 360-degree views.

On Calle San Luis, within the Macarena district, you’ll find quirky craft outlets, and Seville’s best baroque church. In the pale grandeur of Plaza Pumarejo, strive the every day fish stew particular at Casa Macareno, in a placing blue-fronted former ultramarinos (grocery store).

Avoid the hefty queues to get into Seville Cathedral by buying a mixed entry ticket (€12/£10) from El Salvador Church, a five-minute stroll away, which is legitimate for each the church, and the cathedral and Giralda. It’s barely costlier than on-line (€11/£9), but additionally avoids timed entry, so you possibly can go to the large basilica once you need.

At hip lodge Fontecruz Sevilla Seises within the metropolis centre, non-guests can hire a sunbed by the rooftop pool (from €40/£35 for 4 hours) – simply get there early to safe your spot and spend the day having fun with the cathedral views and cooling off within the pool.

Forget taxis, catch the airport bus (Line EA) – a snip at €4 (£3.50) – which runs to Plaza de Armas, Paseo Colon or Avenida Carlos V, within the coronary heart of town.

Seville was one of many earliest Moorish conquests and to this present day retains unbelievable structure from this time. Explore historical partitions and towers close to the Macarena Gate, and the hidden Torre de Plata on Calle Postigo de Carbon.

The magnificent Hotel Alfonso XIII, which is framed by palm timber, is a much-loved piece of Seville’s historical past. With lamps bearing crowns and regal beds, you may say it is match for a king or queen. It’s additionally one among solely two five-star Gran Lujo motels within the metropolis, and gives on-site cooking programs and wine tastings. 

Triana House is an uber-chic lodge with an Art Deco vibe, positioned in fashionable but down-to-earth Triana. The small however well-appointed rooms boast elegant décor by Seville’s most-wanted designer. Clever extras embrace a classy booklet with well-chosen recommendations on the place to eat and store.

The great-value Alminar is a small lodge hidden away on a winding alley within the warren of the Santa Cruz Old Town, solely yards away from the Cathedral and La Giralda. It’s easy however sensible and up to date, and employees are splendidly courteous and useful.

Azulejos (ceramic tiles) are a must-buy – Ceramica Triana, with a spectacular façade, has a mind-boggling number of vibrant wares, and takes commissions too. The store is handily positioned subsequent to Centro Ceramica Triana, a factory-turned-museum concerning the craft. 

An area establishment for greater than a century, La Tienda Ines Rosales is legendary for its skinny crispy olive oil biscuits, tortas de aceite – strive the Seville orange or lemon flavour. In addition to those, and different Ines Rosales pastries, the store has an excellent number of premium high quality merchandise, largely from Andalucia: together with wine (high tip: Mirlo, an fragrant Viognier from close by Cazalla de la Sierra), and additional virgin olive oil (award-winning Oro del Desierto), in addition to orange flower water and orange-scented physique lotions (when in Seville…).

Spring and autumn are one of the best instances to go to town, when the daytime temperatures are heat, with delicate evenings. The metropolis involves life for Semana Santa (Holy Week) in March/April, adopted by Feria two weeks later – the sherried-up, frilly-dress-and-dancing get together in a fairground to the south of town.

In summer time, the afternoons and evenings are sweltering, with siestas a should and a pool for cooling dips advisable, whereas winter days may be cool and wet. But the solar shines (nearly) all yr spherical, so that you‘re nearly assured get blue skies and wonderful mild.

• Seville is a really relaxed metropolis, nevertheless it’s good to be ready concerning the dos and don’ts. The greatest distinction between southern Spain and Britain is the timing of meals. Lunch doesn’t occur for many till no less than 2pm – though nowadays some locations open as early as 12.30pm – or 9.30pm for dinner (some locations at 8pm). If you eat early, be ready to eat in a quiet restaurant with out locals or a buzzy environment.

• In phrases of costume codes, shorts are effective, although as anyplace, in smarter eating places trousers or a skirt is extra acceptable. In the Cathedral, the next garments will not be allowed: micro-shorts/hotpants, miniskirts or strapless tops (ladies); vest tops (males); hats similar to sunhats and baseball caps; and flip-flops.

• Public transport is great, though if you happen to’re staying within the centre you’re unlikely to want it, as you possibly can stroll in every single place. It could be very inexpensive per journey, with one or three-day passes additionally accessible. The tram goes from Plaza Nueva by way of the cathedral and Puerta Jerez (for the Alfonso XIII lodge), to Prado de San Sebastian (for Parque Maria Luisa) and terminates at San Bernardo. The most central Metro station (just one line) is Puerta Jerez; the road goes westwards by way of Triana and Los Remedios (for the Feria floor) to the suburban Aljarafe space, and eastwards by way of Nervion (for Sevilla FC stadium) to Montequinto.

• Cabs are simple to search out (white and yellow), with ranks outdoors luxurious motels: Inglaterra (Plaza Nueva), Gran Melia Colon (Calle Canalejas), Alfonso XIII (Puerta Jerez); additionally Calle Alemanes (by the cathedral), Calle Martin Villa (by Las Setas), El Corte Ingles division retailer (Plaza del Duque), Plaza de Arms bus station (Calle Torneo) and Plaza de Cuba in Triana. They are very well-priced, and a trip inside the historic centre (space contained in the ring highway) gained’t break the financial institution. Uber and Cabify additionally each function in Seville.

• Tipping is just not anticipated, and there’s no service cost, though some eating places have a canopy cost for bread. A tip of round 10 per cent in a restaurant will probably be gratefully acquired.

Currency: Euros €

Telephone code: 00 34 954/955

Time distinction: GMT +1

Flight time: Around two and a half hours from London

Essential contacts:

British Consulate (00 34 952 35 23 00; gov.uk), Calle Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Edificio Eurocom, 29006 Malaga, Spain.

Police: dial 091

Ambulance: dial 112

Tourist Office: Plaza del Triunfo 1, Sevilla, Spain; 00 34 954 210 005

Fiona has lived within the historic, flamboyant Andalucian metropolis since 2003. As a metropolis information, she revels in guests’ reactions – jaws dropping in surprise – at its delights, such because the world’s largest Gothic Cathedral and the resplendent Plaza de España.