I visited North Korea 30 instances – and would LOVE to return

For most people, North Korea is shrouded in mystery.

But not for traveller Zoe Stephens, from Liverpool in the UK. She has visited more than 30 times, both as a tourist and a guide for other tourists.

She first visited North Korea in 2016 and began taking tours there a year later. For a time, she crossed the border every month – and has visited almost every one of the hermit kingdom’s regions.

Speaking to MailOnline Travel, she reveals her experiences in a country that, to all intents and purposes, has cut itself off from the outside world.

Zoe, who speaks Chinese, Korean and Japanese, and lives in Taiwan, reveals here how the North Korean people are far more ‘normal’ than Westerners think they are and ‘find it hilarious when people try to “teach” them about things like Facebook and Instagram’. Read on for more…

How difficult is it to visit North Korea?

Not at all, according to the young adventurer.

Zoe, 30, comments: ‘I basically just Googled “North Korea Tour” and booked a tour. North Korea is known as difficult to access but, in reality, it is very easy.

‘Even the visa is simple – you just fill in a simple form, pay a fee, and send a copy of your passport. The rest is done for you.’

Where has she visited within the country?

‘I’ve been to every province apart from one over the years,’ the tour guide says. ‘This includes many cities within North Korea.

‘I’ve been south to the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) at the north-south Korean border, west to the seaside area of Nampo, east to the city of Wonsan and North to the city of Chongjin and Samjiyon, home to the famous mountain Paektusan and a lot of incredible places in between.’

What are North Korea’s best and worst qualities?

Zoe answers: ‘It’s a shame it’s so closed off and you have to do a tour – it would be great to go on a camping or hiking adventure there.

‘But that’s just the reality. The best part is the people for sure. They’re incredibly welcoming and a lot of fun.’

Zoe adds: ‘I think a tour to North Korea is pleasantly underwhelming. The media has a habit of sensationalising it, but in reality, you’ll find it’s relatively normal.’

Did she ever feel in danger?

‘Honestly, not once,’ Zoe replies.

Did she see any inequality?

‘There’s a big difference between what you see in the cities and the countryside areas,’ the traveller responds.

Was she limited in what she could see?

‘Yes and no,’ Zoe says. ‘I always tell people that they show you what they want to show you, but you can see much more.’

What did she see while she was there?

‘Lots,’ Zoe replies. ‘From local cafes to museums to beautiful landscapes to markets… I’ve spent a total of several months of my life there and there’s lots to see.’

What are the North Korean people like?

Zoe answers: ‘To give a boring answer… they’re like normal people! They love to have fun, drink, and make dirty jokes. At the same time, they take their job very seriously and they’re incredibly well-educated and knowledgeable about the world.

‘People expect them to know nothing about the world and the guides find it hilarious when people try to “teach” them about things like Facebook and Instagram. In their words, “We know about it and don’t think it’s that great… why do people always want to show us?”

‘They’re also much more knowledgeable on history and geography than many foreigners I’ve ever met, and their language skills are incredible – especially considering a lot of them have never been abroad. Of course, these are the guides I’m talking about.

‘The locals don’t speak much English generally speaking, but nevertheless, throughout Pyongyang, it’s a well-educated society. Education is free for all, even at university level.’

Would she ever return?

‘Absolutely, I’m eager,’ says Zoe. ‘My last trip there was in January 2020. I was one of the last tourists to visit as the border closed a couple of days after due to Covid. Upon leaving, I said goodbye to the friends I’d made there and said, “See you soon!”

‘Usually, I go every month or so. So, it’s normal to wait a few weeks and see each other again but now it’s been almost five years. That “see you soon” feels very long indeed.’