How to retire to Croatia! I’ve a £79,000 dwelling minutes from the seashore

It’s late October and the water in the Adriatic is gloriously warm. We’re still swimming in the sea and going for long balmy walks through Marjan Forest Park, just inland from the charming centre of Split with its narrow alleyways and medieval churches.

Split is Croatia’s second biggest city, after the capital Zagreb. It has a population of 160,000 and a history dating from ancient Greek times – but it really got going when Roman Emperor Diocletian built a summer residence across the Adriatic Sea from Italy.

The result, Diocletian’s Palace, is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting almost a million tourists each year, who flock to see its labyrintine chambers, marble columns and arches.

But I’m not one of the visitors with cameras. This is the city to where I moved 13 years ago – and it’s just about the best thing I’ve ever done. Not simply for the sunshine and Mediterranean lifestyle, but for the property investment. 

The small, modern apartment I bought for £79,000 – lounge, dining area, little kitchen, bedroom and terrace – now has a market value of around £200,000.

That’s obviously cheaper than many places back home. And it’s located in a great spot at the bottom of Marjan Hill, in Varoš, the city’s oldest neighbourhood.

I’m not, of course, alone in discovering the local charms – and financial benefits – of Croatia.

Many Britons have been attracted to the country in recent years. Aside from the beauty, the fabulous climate and the reasonable property costs, there’s another big draw: the excellent cost of living.

Yes, these may have gone up slightly since Croatia adopted the euro on January 1 last year (ending its former currency, the kuna), but most day-to-day costs such as council services and heating/air-conditioning bills are still comparatively cheap.

When I moved here I was aged 62. I was born on the Wirral, although I had lived most of my life in North Yorkshire – working as a primary school teacher, before spending time in Croatia’s neighbouring country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, where I had a role providing healing and meditation to war veterans and women with trauma.

It was around this time that I discovered the delights of Split and, after a long relationship came to an end, I thought: why not just stay here?

Back then, in 2011, a local teacher’s salary was typically between €5,000 (£4,157) and €7,000 (£5,821), while a doctor could earn €20,000 (£16,631). Having a pension of €11,000 (£9,147) was – I was advised – equivalent to ‘an executive’s wage’ in Croatia.

Life has indeed proved affordable – and I have found the health care to be extremely good, too.

When in need of a hip replacement six years ago, people told me to go to England for treatment. But instead, I talked to a specialist doctor in Croatia and immediately thought I should opt for treatment here.

If you go to hospital in Croatia, the furniture may not be in the best state but you will get a good bed and a clean environment.

When I was in hospital for the hip operation, the doctors discovered I had a heart problem so I was monitored for longer than expected.

Medical professionals, I found, are keen to work under the idea that prevention is better than cure and they wanted me to be fully rehabilitated. So I was provided with 21 days of rehab with a swimming coach and physio on the island of Korčula.

But the most amazing thing is that it was all free if I stayed in a ward, and a mere €3 (£2.49) a day for a private room.

For this excellent health service, I pay around €9 (£7.48) a month in medical insurance. I’ve also had several heart operations without having to pay extra – never encountering waiting lists either.

So what are the technicalties of livng here as a foreigner?

I am not a Croatian citizen but am a permanent resident. When I moved here I could only get a yearly residency, which had to be reapplied for annually. This was extended to reapplications every three years, then five, then ten years.

Currently, there are several ways a British person can obtain residence in Croatia. For digital nomads, for example, temporary residence can be granted if they can show they are working for companies that are not registered in Croatia.

Alternatively, you can obtain a work and residence permit in Croatia if you land a job at a Croatian company. This permit will be tied to the employer, so if you quit your job or are made redundant, your permit will be cancelled.

Nowadays if you buy a residential property in Croatia as a non-EU/EEA national, you may be granted temporary residence. You are only permitted to stay for six months at a time under such a permit.

One factor to bear in mind, however, is the bureaucracy. Things can take time and you will need a good lawyer. The organisation, Expat in Croatia (expatincroatia.com), which helps people navigate problems like this, is a good first port of call.

Like living anywhere, there are some downsides.

Rising tourism is pushing prices up in restaurants, some of which are losing their traditional feel and going ‘posh’/upmarket to cater for holidaymakers. And some locals have moved out of Split to turn their former homes into B&Bs to make money, meaning it can be quiet here in winter.

That said, there are still lots of grocery shops and a market for fruit and vegetables and the fish market.

In fact, the cuisine here is amazing. Croatians eat food in season, with meat of high quality with great flavour and – of course – wonderful olive oil.

I don’t really miss anything about the UK. On a personal note, six years ago I met my American boyfriend Todd Borisy who is 65 and a retired police officer.

There’s a big expat community here now from all over the world. When I first came to Split, I only knew one person from England. But now, I can simply open an app on my phone, post a message like ‘anyone for coffee?’ and people turn up.

I can’t speak Croatian but I have no problem with communicating.

As far as cultural activites go, you can go to the ballet for just €10 (£8.32), while watching a film at the cinema is €3.50 (£2.91).

Then, there are dancing schools, salsa classes and ballet for children.

Nearby islands such as Hvar can be explored easily too thanks to regular ferry services from Split.

Indeed, there’s never a boring moment. But it would be very different if I lived on one of the islands. A British couple recently told me they bought on the island of Čiovo. They were shocked to find that while in summer it’s lovely, in winter there is nothing there.

Here in Split, by contrast, it’s great to have shops, markets, beaches, theatres and cinemas all just a short walk away. Every day, there’s a different sunset, sunrise, moonrise and sea surface. There’s so much beauty in simple things. I am living a real life – and feel so grateful.

• As told to Ben West