It was George VI who gave the British model Asprey its first Royal Warrant for jewelry in 1940 – and it is supplied sparkle for monarchs ever since
When the Prince of Wales stepped on to the stage in South Africa to announce the winners of the prestigious Earthshot Prize 2024, it was noticeably without his wife, the Princess of Wales.
Despite not being in Singapore for last year’s prize-giving either, who can forget her alongside Prince William in Boston in 2022, when she delighted spectators in an exquisite green gown and Queen Mary‘s gorgeous Delhi Durbar emerald choker – last worn by the former Princess of Wales, Princess Diana.
The inimitable emeralds, cut as huge cabochons and set amongst diamonds, were perfectly coordinated with a pair of earrings set with four round-cut emeralds and 72 pavé-set diamonds from the luxury 250-year-old emporium Asprey.
It was George VI who gave the British brand its first Royal Warrant for jewellery in 1940. Eight years later his mother, Queen Mary, bought a pearl necklace as Princess Margaret‘s 18th birthday present.
Kate Middleton wearing Queen Mary’s gorgeous Delhi Durbar emerald choker
Diana, Princess of Wales wearing the Delhi Durbar emerald choker when she attended a banquet at Claridges Hotel in 1988
Queen Mary presented her granddaughter Princess Margaret (pictured) with a five-strand pearl necklace (above and below) on her 18th birthday
The natural pearl piece with its distinctive Art Deco diamond clasp became a staple of Margaret’s wardrobe
The spectacular five-strand natural pearl piece, with its distinctive Art Deco diamond clasp from when it was created in 1925, became a staple of the late Queen’s sister’s wardrobe, including the princess’s official birthday portraits by Sir Cecil Beaton.
The necklace sold for £276,000 at the Christie’s 2006 auction of many of her belongings (including the Poltimore Tiara), along with its green leather bound box, embossed with an ‘M’ under her coronet.
Another well-known Asprey royal jewel is the magnificent Maple Leaf brooch, which George VI gave to his wife Queen Elizabeth on their state visit to Canada only months before the outbreak of the Second World War.
The Queen arrived in Quebec wearing the brooch that represented Canada’s national emblem – the red maple leaf – the first of many times this diamond-set piece was worn in Canada by members of the Royal Family, including when Kate first visited in 2011.
The magnificent maple leaf brooch (above and below) which George VI gave to his wife Queen Elizabeth (pictured above) on their state visit to Canada only months before the outbreak of the Second World War
The brooch represented Canada’s national emblem – the red maple leaf
The then Duchess of Cambridge wore the maple leaf brooch on a visit to the country when she attended the Evening National Canada Day Celebrations in 2011
How could someone with a fine jewellery collection, such as the one Elizabeth II inherited in 1952, ever be overcome with emotion when given another jewel to add to the 1,000-plus pieces held in the Royal Vaults?
Well the late Queen became just that when, in 1979, she was presented with a sapphire and diamond demi-parure by Sheikh Rashid of Dubai. On receiving the Asprey diamond and sapphire suite during the royal tour of the Middle East, she touched her chest with a rare show of emotion at such enormous and exquisite sapphires that were set amongst diamonds in the necklace, earrings and ring (the two latter items were later transformed into a bracelet).
The necklace was reduced in length, from which another pair of earrings was created that we have most recently seen worn by the Princess of Wales, when still the Duchess of Cambridge.
Asprey was the go-to jeweller for another Middle Eastern monarch’s gift to a member of the British Royal Family. In 1981 the Crown Prince of Saudia Arabia gave a full parure of sapphires and diamonds to Diana, Princess of Wales as a wedding present, to complement her famous engagement ring.
The Asprey suite originally comprised a necklace with a huge Burmese sapphire set as a pendant amidst a diamond sunray setting, with a matching bracelet, dress-watch, ring and earrings.
The late princess repurposed the jewels from the watch and ring to create another pair of earrings with detachable drops, and the famous bejewelled velvet band that she wore as both a choker and a bandeau.
In 1981 the Crown Prince of Saudia Arabia gave a full parure of sapphires and diamonds to Diana, Princess of Wales as a wedding present, which included a necklace with a huge Burmese sapphire set as a pendant amidst a diamond sunray setting
In March 2020, while on a visit to Ireland, Kate wore a pair of marquise diamond-set daisies from the Daisy Heritage Collection
At the Wimbledon Men’s Finals in 2018, Kate sported Asprey’s Oak Leaf earrings, set with pavé diamonds, and a gold chain necklace from which were suspended three charm from Asprey’s Woodland Collection
The Diamond Queen, a variation of Rob Munday and Chris Levine’s 3D portrait Equanimity, 2004, featuring the Diamond Diadem
And as we saw in 2022, Kate also goes to Asprey for her own personal and contemporary collection – she has frequently been seen wearing Asprey earrings. In March 2020 whilst on a visit to Ireland, the then Duchess wore a pair of marquise diamond-set daisies from the Daisy Heritage Collection.
While four years earlier at the Wimbledon Men’s Finals in 2018 she sported the brand’s Oak Leaf earrings set with pavé diamonds, plus a gold chain necklace from which were suspended three charms from Asprey’s Woodland Collection.
And last but definitely not least, who can forget Chris Levine’s 2004 famous portrait, Equanimity, of Her late Majesty wearing the Diamond Diadem?
In 2012 the portrait was reworked, with Asprey creating a replica of the diadem by laser-cutting a large sheet of platinum, decorating it with 1,000 diamonds and 25 freshwater pearls – a natural fancy intense yellow round brilliant 3.74-carat diamond was set into an 18-carat yellow gold collet at the centre of the diadem, before being combined with a Levine holographic of the original portrait.
It was displayed in the window of Asprey’s famous flagship on Bond Street in London during the Jubilee celebrations, and then sold by auction for charity.
In June 2012 a special £100 note was produced to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee with the Asprey diadem and portrait included. The portrait was entitled The Diamond Queen and became one of the most modern and identifiable images of Queen Elizabeth II.
