Coffee so unhealthy it is referred to as ‘sock juice’ and the rudest waiters in France – however that is how they prefer it! Why takeover of London-style cafes in Paris has infuriated locals

There’s a specific type of coffee shop that strikes fear into the heart of born-and-bred Parisians – a trendy one, that opened it’s first branch in London. 

Venues majoring in oat milk lattes, matcha with strawberry syrup and gluten-free desserts have arrived in Paris, slowly replacing more traditional cafes – known for their bitter espresso and cigarette terraces – in the French capital.

These London and New York-style are known as ‘coffee shops’, even by the French, in order to distinguish them from the Parisian ‘cafe’. 

Surely they are more or less the same thing, though? Non, absolument pas, say locals. 

The reason why modern coffee culture is doing better than more traditional bistro-style cafes? Parisian coffee is, despite what those who live there might have you believe, simply not very good.

The rubbish, watery coffee – sometimes too strong, sometimes too weak – served for less than €2 (£1.70), in one of the nostalgic cafes many associate with Paris, is more commonly known as ‘jus de chaussette‘, which translates as ‘sock juice’.

Traditional Parisian cafes feature terraces for locals to sip their coffee slowly…but could they be a dying breed as oat milk lattes and flat whites grow in popularity in the French capital?

Modern and artisan coffee shops are springing up across the city, leaving traditional cafes in the shadows

Gone are the days when the only Paris coffee option is a bitter brew, affectionately known as ‘sock juice’ by locals

In ‘bobo’ cafes, a certain type of establishment favoured by middle-class, bourgeois left-wing Parisians of the tofu-eatng variety, you can get significantly better coffee.

There are a grand total of 1,400 of these such ‘coffee shops’ in Paris, in comparison to the 1,000 traditional cafés, according to The Times. This is a significant drop in comparison to more than 10,000 in 1950. 

Some, of course, sing the praises of these new establishments springing up across the city. 

Better quality coffee is the number one plus, while vegan alternative milks and a greater range of options are other advantages.

Land & Monkeys, for instance, is a popular vegan bakery in the city that serves delicious coffee with oat milk as a standard, while Monocle, Shakespeare & Co and Tanat all serve significantly better brews than your average traditional cafe.

Modern coffee shops such as The Monocle Cafe offer high-quality drinks and high brow reading

But not everyone is convinced. One Parisian, Emmanuel Joste, told the Daily Mail: ‘Personally, I find it annoying and frustrating that these overpriced London-style coffee shop are taking over with their very slick design and globalised menus.

‘I probably feel this way because I’m a Parisian living in London so I’m disappointed to see them when I go back to Paris… but on the other hand, traditional cafés do serve rubbish coffee and the rude waiters do really exist.

‘But sock juice and rude waiters are part of the Parisian ‘patrimoine’ (heritage)!’ 

Another British former Paris resident added: ‘I got coffee with some French girls at the kind of place that sells matcha cookies, and they said it was so bad. The cappuccino from the cafe was so weak, barely drinkable.’

A key part of the success of traditional cafes is their value for money. The coffee may not be great, but it’s strong and cheap. Espressos for €1.30 (£1.10) are not uncommon, unheard of in more modern establishments.

Still beautiful: One local said they liked the fact you can linger in a  traditional Paris cafe

Evidently, Parisians are sad to see them dying out – but so are Britons visiting the city of love.

One, holidaying in Paris recently, told the Daily Mail it is exactly the cafe culture at these traditional spots that makes them so appealing: ‘In London we are a “get in, get out” type environment. 

‘In Paris there isn’t a pushy feel and it is all about sitting for long periods of time, savouring, enjoying and being present. 

‘That’s why we love visiting I suppose, it’s different and a place where being more relaxed with time and coffee breaks are acceptable.’

Paris’ traditional cafes might be on the decline – but the last sock juice hasn’t quite been poured just yet, it seems.