‘I went to Britain’s oldest Indian restaurant and one factor blew my thoughts’
Britain’s first Indian restaurant faces closure due to planned refurbishment work. So to find out how it helped cement the UK’s love for curry, our reporter went to the Veeraswamy
To find out how the Indian restaurant helped catapult Brit’s love for curry I had to travel down for a meal(Image: Humphrey Nemar)
Britain’s oldest curry house is at risk of closure. The Veeraswamy, a 99-year-old institution described as “worthy of national recognition”, could be converted into office space due to plans to refurbish the London building.
So to find out how this one of a kind restaurant helped cement our nation’s love of curry, I bravely headed down to sample its cuisine…
Tucked away on a corner of Regent Street in central London, from the moment I entered the establishment it was clear I was going to have an evening to remember. After sitting at the table, I felt like I had been transported back into the London of the roaring 20s – the only thing missing was the iconic transatlantic accent and the chirping of an old vintage “golden-age” radio in the background.
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The historic establishment is dimly lit by several glass chandeliers, with smooth jazz from the time providing the perfect soundtrack. Every inch of the interior is dripping with culture, history and splendour, with its walls are adorned with traditional Indian art pieces and photos of the guests who have frequented the establishment over the years.
Even the paper the menu was printed on was a stunning sight to behold, as its pages had an extravagant golden finish to them, leading them to glimmer and sparkle as you browsed the available dishes.
I have to confess the beautiful dishes spoiled my taste buds and as the experience at the Veeraswamy restaurant was second to none. Its roasted coconut chicken dish was the best curry I’ve had the pleasure of eating – and I would go as far as arguing it’s the best curry in the entire country.
The warmth from the spices only enhanced the meal as the heat never once overpowered the dish. The chefs had masterfully found a way to make flavour and fire complement each other as the combination danced across my palette leaving me wanting more after every bite. The experience was only made possible by such warm and attentive servers and staff members who poured a massive degree of love and passion into their craft.
Throughout every second of my dining experience at the Veeraswamy you could feel every member of staff was filled with a deep and rich pride for their craft, culture and cuisine.
Never have I been to a restaurant so deserving of its Michelin star. It deserves to remain for a long time to come.
Despite the incredible experience it provides to guests, the restaurant is currently engaged in a battle for survival ahead of its 100th anniversary. The Crown Estate, its landlord, has not renewed the lease for the food spot due to planned refurbishment work for the building which could see it converted into offices.
More than 20,000 people have signed a petition calling for it to remain in its original site in Victory House, where it first opened its door nrearly 100 years ago. Outraged by the decision to move the culinary cornerstone, the supporters have said: “Veeraswamy deserves our highest praise for its long legacy of excellence and service. The legacy must be preserved.”
A Crown Estate spokesman said they don’t plan to renew the company’s lease, saying it’s not “a decision we’ve taken lightly.”
The spokesman said it understood its change-of-use decision was “disappointing” for the restaurant and it has offered to help find alternative premises in the West End plus financial compensation.
The statement added: “We need to carry out a comprehensive refurbishment of Victory House to both bring it up to modern standards, and into full use.” Without an agreed settlement the dispute could end up in court with the restaurant challenging the non-renewal of its lease.
The petition can be found here.
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