Kate’s crowning glory on the Coronation was by Jess Collett

‘It was probably the best day of my hat life,’ Jess Collett says, recalling the Coronation of King Charles III and Queen Camilla. 

The London-based milliner rose to national fame when the Princess of Wales and her daughter, Princess Charlotte, wore coordinating headpieces designed by Jess in collaboration with Alexander McQueen for the crowning ceremony at Westminster Abbey. 

‘I felt like all the stars had aligned and I was like, wow, I can die happy now,’ the humble milliner tells me during a visit to her studio in Notting Hill.

‘It was amazing to work with Alexander McQueen – such artisans. It felt like it was the top of everything.’

The stunning headpieces that gained Jess critical acclaim featured silver bullion, crystal and intricate three-dimensional leaf embroidery, offering a modern interpretation of the traditional tiara. 

‘If I never make anything ever again, it doesn’t matter,’ Jess continues.

‘I’ve been waiting for that day all my hat life and I don’t think I can top it. The good thing is I don’t have to because she’ll be wearing the crown next time!’

Despite being someone who doesn’t typically look good in hats, I was intrigued to explore Jess Collett’s workshop and experience her offerings firsthand, particularly with Royal Ascot approaching.

The milliner welcomes me warmly into her sunlit studio, filled with hats of various shapes, sizes and colours, from signature toquilla hairbands to extravagant headpieces designed to attract attention.

‘I tend to be inspired by a material. I try and work the fabric as best I can,’ she explains.

‘The good thing about millinery is that you can work with straws in the summer, then felts in the winter, so it’s quite varied.

‘It’s nice to be able to work with both, but I’m always testing new things and I like to be inspired by new things.’

In one corner of her workshop stands a charming hand-painted vintage dressing room divider, inherited from her grandmother, while another corner houses Jess’s personal wardrobe, complete with a pair of glitzy mules that she slips on for photographs. 

The mother-of-two, who commutes to work on a scooter, reminisces about her school days spent in the drama cupboard playing dress-up. This carefree spirit is reflected in her designs.

With her mother being a dressmaker and upholsterer, it was a natural progression for Jess to pursue a creative career. 

Having worked with notable figures, such as Sarah Ferguson, Duchess of York, her daughter Princess Eugenie, and Pippa Middleton, Jess has earned a place in the prestigious British Hat Guild. 

And it’s evident why she was selected to participate in the Coronation. 

Visiting the studio in June, its busiest month due to the races and wedding season, offers a glimpse into the bustling atmosphere. 

Not usually one to pull off headwear, I’m curious to learn Jess’s advice for someone purchasing their first hat. 

She explains that like with glasses, finding the right proportions for each individual is key as certain styles complement different face shapes.  

‘It’s about balancing your face shape,’ she says.

‘I have an oval shaped face, which suits most hats – I’m lucky – but because I’m petite I wouldn’t suit very large hats.

‘If you have an oblong face, you don’t want to be wearing tall hats with short brims. You want to be wearing low crowns and wide brims to balance out the face.

‘People with square faces suit styles that are very soft and closed, like berets or cloches.

‘If you have a round face, don’t do round crowns; you want sharp edges.’

However, the milliner believes that rules can be broken if a hat makes its wearer feel great.

‘There are set rules but, if you like a hat, you should always try it on because sometimes it can be more about how the hat makes you feel,’ she adds.

‘They’re kind of like an extension of your personality, so I think if someone really enjoys wearing a hat and they look really good then you’ll see them shining through.’

She mentions that hats tend to look more flattering when tilted to one side, a style often sported by British royalty. 

‘Some hats look good straight on, but more often than not I think they look better tipped to one side.

‘Something with a sweep upwards is generally more flattering – that’s why a tilt is great.’

Jess provides a wide range of styles in ready-to-wear, couture and bespoke services. 

Additionally, she offers a hiring service, providing customers with a more affordable and sustainable option. 

Depending on the complexity of the design, her hats typically take between one and three days to complete.

The milliner prefers to see the outfit the hat will accompany to understand the overall look – she can even hand-dye the accessory to match specific fabrics. 

Indeed, the Princess of Wales’s headpiece was lead by her Alexander McQueen gown, which featured silver bullion and embroidery, incorporating floral emblems of the UK, such as rose, thistle, daffodil and shamrock. 

When I ask about her choice for Royal Ascot, she gestures towards ‘Clemmie,’ a stunning vintage-inspired floral headpiece in dusky pink and rust hues, available to hire for £300.

As she tries it on, it becomes clear that she effortlessly carries off any style.

Jess believes that the hat should be the focal point of the outfit, preferring shoes and bags to be understated, almost invisible. 

‘They’re not a big deal for me, it’s about the hat and the outfit.

‘And Ascot is a chance where you can wear something from your wildest dreams without overshadowing anyone’.

She then reaches for the £995 ‘Cavendish’, recently worn by Akshata Murty, wife of Prime Minister Rishi Sunak, during the D-Day service in Ver-sur-Mer.

The elegant navy design is crafted from hemp straw, moulded into a disc shape and adorned with a bow and pearl hat pin. 

‘This hat acts as a complement to the outfit, rather than a standing piece by itself,’ Jess says.

She highlights the importance choosing the right hairstyle, suggesting a low ponytail or chignon for a polished look. 

However, she notes that it could also work with a bouncy blowdry or a short bob. 

While traditionally those with short hair shouldn’t opt for a large brim, Jess notes that it depends on the individual. ‘Some people have a beaming smile that takes over,’ she says. 

Above all, she emphasises that you should feel comfortable and confident in your hat. 

‘You don’t want to let it overpower you. I think you can tell if someone doesn’t feel comfortable – if they’re always fiddling with it, it’s not a good experience. 

‘Choose a hat that you feel comfortable in.’

Jess also reminds me of the Royal Enclosure rules, where a hat or headpiece with a solid base of four inches in diameter is mandatory.

It’s now my turn to find a hat and Jess selects the £720 ‘Victoire’ from her collaboration with Samantha Cameron’s brand, Cefinn.

The striking piece, which is made from synamay straw and trimmed with a contrasting bow, is both elegant and modern.  

Jess observes that the hat sits slightly too high on my head and suggests something lower. 

She picks out a £150 beige straw boater named ‘Carmen’, adorned with an exquisite scarlet corsage.

‘This is a lot better, shape wise, it’s sitting lower down and cutting across the head.

‘I’m quite shocked because I never thought I would suit this,’ I admit.

‘We can try a larger one,’ the enthusiastic milliner suggests as she pulls out the iconic ‘Downton’ hat, worn by Sarah Ferguson at Princess Eugenie’s wedding to Jack Brooksbank in 2018.

Jess says the royal ‘loves wearing hats’, but I’m hesitant about whether I can pull off the £2,100 Fergie boater – as jovial as it is.

After trying on several more hats, the milliner discovers that a playful floral design is my perfect match. 

The ‘Ingrid’, a £1,450 Swiss braid bandeau with a red veil spotted with delicate velvet flowers, fits comfortably with a comb and elastic. 

‘I love that one on you. The colour looks incredible against your hair – you really suit it,’ Jess assures me.

Wearing it makes me feel confident and free-spirited, as its vibrant hue symbolises strength and power. 

In contrast, when I try on Akshata Murty’s favoured hat, which can be hired for £150, I’m overcome with a sense of elegance. 

Jess tells me that I suit darker shades and notes how each style transforms my appearance – and demeanor.

Struggling to come to a decision, she advises me to ‘instinctively choose the one that makes you feel best’. 

For clients in search of hairbands, Jess provides a diverse selection, ranging from simple plaited bands to glamorous embellished options and a particularly exuberant scrunchie. 

Moreover, a hairband is flattering, easy to wear and eliminates the need for head sizing.

I couldn’t resist catching a glimpse of Jess’s cheerful £385 ‘Birdie’ scrunchies, guaranteed to elevate any outfit.

She explains that the idea originated at her own wedding when some of her friends wore similar hairbands.

She quickly developed the concept, securing the goose feathers on wire. 

This season, her red and aqua colour options offer a vibrant alternative to a hat for a summer soirée. 

‘Hairbands are such a good halfway house – they’re really easy to wear and you can rewear them,’ she says.

Jess also talked about her elegant older clientele, who visit her studio dressed in their finery. It’s this timeless glamour that inspires Jess throughout the event season.

‘People don’t really dress up very much for weddings – but a headpiece finishes off an outfit.

‘These days, we are so casual, but I think it’s nice to dress up – and we feel good when we do.’