Six indicators your anti-ageing routine is damaging your face

But dermatologists and cosmetic doctors warn that this pursuit of perfection can tip into obsession. Experts are witnessing an alarming rise in midlife women affected by a new condition, ‘dermorexia’.

This is an obsessive preoccupation with using excessive amounts of skincare treatments and following an elaborate beauty routine. Ironically, layering too many products, many with harsh active ingredients, can cause or worsen skin conditions such as acne, eczema, dermatitis, rosacea, and psoriasis.

‘I’ve witnessed people spending upwards of £2,000 per month on skincare,’ says Dr Penelope Tympanidis, a Harley Street consultant dermatologist. ‘On products they don’t need.’ 

Penelope Tympanidis, a Harley Street consultant dermatologist says she has witnessed people spending upwards of £2,000 per month on skincare

Dermorexia was first spotted among teens and young adults, when beauty influencers also known as ‘Sephora Kids’ began sharing their 12-step skincare routines on TikTok. Now it’s rife in middle-aged women seeking poreless, glossy skin to mimic the filters they use on social media.

Dermorexia presents in several ways, with the above skin conditions being common. But Dr Tympanidis says typical cases can range from dull looking, over-clogged skin prone to blackheads and acne to super sensitized red and often flaky skin.

The former is caused by overusing nourishing anti-ageing creams and rich moisturisers, and the latter by overuse of products with high concentrations of glycolic acid, niacinamide, retinol, salicylic acid and AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) which can cause inflammation and damage the skin.

A case in point is Tiffany, a 45-year-old lawyer from London, who was unwittingly suffering from ermorexia when she saw Dr Surbhi Virmani, a cosmetic dermatologist.

Often dermorexics can have psychological issues, exacerbated by low self-esteem, leading them to consume many more products than they need.

A case in point is Tiffany, a 45-year-old lawyer from London, who was unwittingly suffering from Dermorexia when she saw Dr Surbhi Virmani, a cosmetic dermatologist.

Experts are witnessing an alarming rise in midlife women affected by a new condition, ‘dermorexia’

‘Tiffany was wrecking her complexion with harsh acids and too many exfoliants, which left her skin feeling raw and sensitive. The condition had also impacted her confidence. The good news is that we repaired it with the correct skincare and a little patience.’

Dr Virmani recommends a simple three-step routine. ‘My favourite budget cleansers are by Byoma (£9.99, Boots.com). They’re available in cream and gel formulas to suit individual needs and are fantastic at calming sensitive skins. To moisturise, try a new Polish brand called ProXN (proxn.eu./home-en), it contains an antioxidant from hops that is powerful yet gentle, and helps to strengthen and restore the skin barrier and prevent inflammation.

‘A good SPF is important all year round and Synchrorose Intensive SPF30 (£40, drmedispa.com) and Theraderm Platinum Protection (£30.99, theraderm.net) are lovely sunscreens for sensitive skin. I also recommend not cleansing in the morning when the skin barrier is already impaired as this can irritate the problem.’

Are you suffering from Dermorexia

1. You suddenly suffer sensitive or reactive skin

New issues such as breakouts, redness and dermatitis are often attributed to overusing products.

The heavy use of occlusive products – designed to lock in moisture – can clog pores, causing inflammatory acne. If you like layering products, use non-comedogenic products that won’t disrupt skin function. Try brands such as La Roche Posay, Cerave, Cetaphil, Neutrogena, Dermalogica and Eucerin.

2. You’re seeing several skin experts, without satisfaction. This is a ‘red flag’ says Dr Wassim Taktouk

‘The dermorexics I have seen invariably tell me they’re prescribed various different products from many doctors they see.’

3. You’re obsessed with achieving ‘glass skin’

‘Glass skin’ or ‘dolphin skin’ hashtags on social media have been blamed for contributing to the rise in dermorexia. ‘These images are not realistic and usually involve a person slathering their skin in oil and using a good ring light,’ says facialist Teresa Tarmey.

4. Your eyes are puffy

‘Around the orbital area you also have tiny blood vessels that can dilate and temporarily swell with the overuse of rich eye creams,’ says Dr Tympanidis. ‘Gently pat a pea-sized amount of eye cream on the peri-orbital bone (top of the cheekbone) and let it diffuse across the area rather than slathering over the eyelids.’

5. You have cupboards full of unused products

Most mainstream skincare with stabilised actives have a shelf life and lose efficacy after two years, although ‘organic’ ones may last only six months. ‘People are wasting their money and compromising their skin condition,’ says Dr Emma Craythorne, who advocates three skincare steps in the morning (cleanser, moisturiser and sun protection) and two at night (cleanser and overnight treatment moisturiser),

6. You’re forensically examining small changes to your face

‘It has gone from patients having unrealistic expectations of what can be achieved with skincare to many who are convinced there is something physically wrong with their face,’ says Dr Taktouk.

‘A big part of my job now is reassuring patients their skin looks perfectly normal and then helping them simplify their routines.’