They are seen by millions of women across the world as a simple way to achieve a perfect plump pout.
But lip fillers could have a very unwelcome long-term effect — triggering a rare type of cancer, experts have warned.
Some fillers could be contaminated with toxic manufacturing chemicals, they say.
In addition, as filler breaks down it enters the circulation and could build up elsewhere in the body causing blockages.
These things could trigger cell changes that lead to blood cancer, according to Dr Kalliopi Dodou, Head of Pharmaceutics at Teesside University.
While uncrosslinked HA is quickly broken down and absorbed by the body, the crosslinked version stays in the body much longer, which could be risky, the researchers found
While research is at an early stage Dr Dodou says it is a potential risk that must be considered — and is calling for stricter regulations fillers in the UK.
In a new analysis, Dr Dodou compared 111 studies on the safety of the most common type of dermal filler — hyaluronic acid, or HA — and found reports of alarming risks.
Injections of the gel-like substance not only only adds volume to lips and cheeks but can also be used to enhance skin hydration and elasticity.
And the procedure is extremely popular. A 2019 poll of some 51,000 13-24 year-olds by VICE UK revealed treatment such as lip fillers are increasingly commonplace.
More than half said they viewed these ‘tweakments’ comparable to getting a haircut or manicure.
In a separate question that asked 60,000 if they have had any cosmetic procedures like lip fillers done, only about 4,000 said they had undergone such beauty treatments.
Fillers have notoriously been linked to shows like ITV’s Love Island, which features numerous contestants with extremely ‘tweaked’ features.
It triggered a craze for young women to ask for extreme, inflated ‘Love Island lips’.
TV shows such as Love Island have popularised lip filler with stars including Matilda Draper (left) and Nicole Samuel (right) both opting for plumper lips
But with the growing popularity of the cosmetic treatment, experts are warning that some substances used could be harmful.
Dr Dodou explained that, while HA itself is non-toxic, some of the chemicals used in the manufacture of the fillers which give the gels different thicknesses are harmful.
Although these chemicals are supposed to be ‘cleared’ from the final product, ‘small amount may remain,’ she adds.
Dr Dodou continued: ‘The more filler we use, the more we expose ourselves to leftover chemicals.
‘Dermal fillers break down over time, but as they do, they may release these toxic substances.
‘We don’t fully understand the health impact of this yet, and it could be serious, especially if fillers are used too often.’
One of the studies in Dr Dodou’s analysis, published in Cosmetics Journal, found that dermal fillers could enter the lymphatic system — the network of glands, known as nodes, and cuts through the body that are vital for immunity.
The head and neck region contains more than 300 lymph nodes and some of these are located around the nose and lips, where filler is often injected.
Dr Dodou explained that if the filler is over injected or injected incorrectly, this can block these lymph nodes that fight foreign substances, such as infections.
This can lead to swelling and is known to increase the risk of lymph cells going haywire, leading to immune system cancers like lymphoma.
But researchers note that the hypothesis linking dermal fillers to cancer is still in early stages.
And Marc Pacifico, President of British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons said: ‘There is no evidence that fillers cause cancer.
‘The scientific evidence suggests that some fillers might impact lymphatic flow and result in lymphatic obstruction.
‘With any cosmetic procedure its essential to go to a properly qualified and experienced practitioner who understands facial anatomy and will be fully versed on the safety profile of the dermal filler being administered.’
In addition, the research also raises awareness of the vision problems or blindness in instances where fillers block blood vessels around the eyes.
A separate five-year study found that treatment fully restored vision in only 36 per cent of cases where fillers caused such blockages.
These findings also raise serious questions about the safety of these treatments, especially when administered by individuals with insufficient training.
Despite being classified as medical devices, current UK regulations allow a wide range of practitioners to administer these injections.
The British Association of Cosmetic Nurses has also warned about the lack of UK legislation, noting that Scotland has been identified as the ‘worst country in Europe for unqualified beauticians injecting customers with cosmetic treatments’.
An amendment to the Health and Care Act 2022 will introduce a licensing system in the UK, but a date for its implementation has not yet been set.
‘Our research underscores the urgent need for regulatory bodies to strengthen existing frameworks to enhance consumer safety and raise standards in the aesthetic industry,’ Dr Dodou added.
While many clinics are reputable with treatments such as lip filler successfully administered without issue an increasing number of patients are reporting harms.
The British Association of Cosmetic Nurses has also warned about the lack of UK legislation, noting that Scotland has been identified as the ‘worst country in Europe for unqualified beauticians injecting customers with cosmetic treatments’
An estimated 900,000 Botox injections are carried out in the UK each year, most without any complaints from patients.
Save Face — a Government approved register of accredited practitioners — received almost 3,000 complaints in 2022 alone, with over two-thirds of those complaints relating to dermal fillers and almost a quarter relating to Botox.
Injections like dermal fillers and Botox, is the most recognised brand of the substance Botulinum toxin, can cause infections and painful swelling if they aren’t administered properly.
If filler is accidentally injected into a blood vessel, it can cut off supply of blood and oxygen to the tissue, causing it to die and eventually fall away.