Jet lag can be a beautiful nightmare. Once more, I was on a power walk at a peaceful early morning hour along Seven Mile Beach on the Cayman Islands.
While pounding the sand barefoot, I encounter a mix of friendly locals, fit expats and other weary travellers blowing away the cobwebs. Nearly all say good morning. It’s a far cry from the daily commute.
It’s one of the many aspects of the Caymans I come to love on my week-long trip – the beaches are completely accessible to all, no private stretches commandeered by hotels, meaning a real blend of actual real life from dawn to dusk.
The Caymans has always held an intrigue to me, being a financial journalist… when you say the Caymans, most Britons immediately associate it as a tax haven, rather than family-friendly holiday destination.
Other, more heavily promoted Caribbean islands are more likely to be on our radar such as Antigua, Barbados and St Lucia.
But this beautiful British Overseas Territory, nestled south of Cuba, west of Jamaica, is so much more than a financial hub – and it is on a mission to be seen as such.
It’s a culinary mecca; a nature lover’s dream; and a place to truly unwind, with little British touches, such as driving on the left, and still having the Queen on its currency (I didn’t find one with a Charles III portrait on during my visit).
Seventh heaven: The jewel in the crown of the Caymans is Seven Mile Beach – plenty of sandy paradise to go round
Plus, it is relatively untapped by British travellers. You can fly direct from Heathrow with British Airways five days a week with a brief stop in Nassau – but with 13,032 air arrivals from Britain last year, that works out at little more than 1,000 a month. And not all will be holidaymakers.
Recently, a survey named it number 10 on the most sought-after places to move to from Britain. It also has the best passport stamp on the planet… a little turtle.
Refreshingly, the island has few all-inclusive hotels (similar to another British Overseas Territory, Anguilla, where I visited back in 2017).
Instead, it has a blend of high-end hotels with plenty of private accommodation to rent, meaning it can be done relatively inexpensively. Plus, it means getting to try as many of the 300-plus restaurants on the island as possible.
My modus operandi for this trip was to focus on my wellbeing – something I am not great at with a hectic family and work life. It often gets pushed aside.
It started with my morning power walks, and in between, it involved new adventures, rekindling old passions, nature, yoga, swimming and of course, eating and drinking well.
Here’s how it went…
Challenge yourself to new experiences
Horses terrify me slightly. But, never one to turn down a new adventure, the thought of riding one into the Caribbean Sea felt like the perfect place for a total novice to start – and a great way to kick-off the trip.
If I went flying, hopefully it would be a soft landing in the sand… or a gentle tumble into the warm ocean.
I quickly settled on my beautiful mare Lady, who was the perfect starter horse. There was something incredibly zen about being on the back of a trotting horse by the sea.
A quick hop off to remove the saddle was a little more unnerving, but once in the sea, I settled into it. If you get the chance to do it, do it, even if you are complete novice like me.
The experience was incredibly laid back and the setting stunning – Barker’s Beach National Park, on the Northern tip and incredibly quiet, so no worries about making a complete idiot of yourself.
How to do it: Spirit of the West – West Bay.
At the opposite end of the spectrum, and a less daunting way to unwind for a few hours, is a few hours in a spa, complete with a treatment.
I had something labelled a ‘seafire voyage massage’. Like horses, massages scare me slightly – but what transpired was a completely life-affirming massage that left me drifting and drooling in equal measure for hours afterwards.
I then kicked back in the serene spa, at the Kimpton Seafire, and truly felt spoilt.
How to do it: Kimpton Seafire Spa – 60 Tanager Way.
Total novice: Having never ridden a horse before, I had the perfect well-natured mare in Lady
Easy does it: I rode in a saddle on Lady on the beach – before removing it and her heading neck-deep into the warm Caribbean sea
Rekindle old passions
I love cooking and am the main chef at home. But that said, it’s always good to get the tips from professionals… and Chef Mo at Vida is an incredibly vibrant teacher.
With a group of others, we rustled up a tasty starter and main, and then ate it under the stars of the venue.
There is something incredibly personal about doing a cooking class in another country, and I picked up some better chopping techniques, and flavour ideas I’ve since used at home. Highly recommended.
How to do it: Vida Cayman Islands – 405 Conch Point Road.
I’ll tell you what is a brilliant modern day invention: the e-bike. As I whizzed around mile-upon-mile of the Caymans with my brilliant guide Ryan, it felt an absolute breeze.
Ryan is quite the character – he is full of North American charm, but, crucially, he is incredibly knowledgeable about the island. No question is too big or small.
He tells me that he loves to chat to over-65s on the island, to hear their stories and fill in his own knowledge gaps.
On our ride around the island, we stop at Hell (an abandoned nightclub which houses limestone formations out back, hence its name) and spot local birds; the beach to talk through the trees and their many uses; and stop for lunch at Morgan’s where I eat the most delicious, fresh tuna.
If you truly want to tap into a place – be a traveller, rather than a tourist – getting a lay of the land on two wheels is a great way to do it.
How to do it: Paddle Wheel Adventures – 3, The Grove, 1358 W Bay Rd.
Gnarly: An e-bike ride around the island with the knowledgeable Ryan (pictured right) was the perfect way to get my bearings around this wonderful island
Untapped: Plenty of the island is a nature paradise, with lush greenery aplenty
Hell, no: The bike tour had some intriguing stops including ‘Hell’ – an abandoned nightclub that houses limestone formations sprouting out of the ground out back
Cookin’ up a storm: Chef Mo at Vida was the perfect teacher – and eating the fruits of my labour afterwards outside was a wonderful experience
Be one with nature
Do you want to stroke a jellyfish? It’s not on my bucket list, I confess. But soon, I’m tickling the top of a jellyfish in a big petri dish like it’s a kitten.
Ryan has swapped us from two wheels to a kayak and we’ve sailed through some pretty testy mangroves, while he points out spiny lobsters and a huge stream of fish whizzing by like they’re on the commute (it’s a sign a storm is coming, he ominously says).
While on our nature tour, I tap my inner estate agent to snoop in the back gardens of some celebrities (I can’t name who, but some very big names).
But there is a point, where we are deep in the mangroves, I’ve lost the group and I feel totally isolated on this island in the middle of nowhere. It’s one of my favourite moments of the whole trip. I feel the peace and quiet wash over me.
How to do it: Paddle Wheel Adventures – 3, The Grove, 1358 W Bay Rd.
If there is an animal to encapsulate the chilled Cayman vibe, the blue iguana fits the bill. They are endemic to the island and are incredibly tame. That led to their near demise.
Just 20 years ago, it’s thought only 15 were still around and it was predicted to go extinct… but conservation projects have helped boost numbers to nearly 1,000.
I had a wonderful few hours wandering around the Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park to see the stunning flora and fauna, but the blue iguanas are the star of the show.
They are incredibly photogenic (a photo of one adorns the wall of the visitor centre with the now King, Charles III).
It’s also carefully crafted with children in mind, with a maze, playground equipment and iguanas that, somehow, seem cuddly.
Also, shoutout to the Cayman chickens here. They’re everywhere, including the airport when I arrived. Legend is that in a hurricane 20 years ago, many coops were blown apart, chickens escaped… and, well, you can guess the rest.
How to do it: Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park – North Side
Nosy: Kayaking around the mangroves with our tour guide Ryan was excellent – and a perfect way to nosy around the back of some celebrity houses
Cayman chickens: There were chickens everywhere, including my breakfast guest, pictured – upon arrival, some were in the airport attempting to get on the luggage carousel
Lush: The Queen Elizabeth II Botanical Gardens are extremely family-friendly – and a must-see for any nature lover
Recovery: The native blue iguana population plummeted, but is back on the mend – King Charles recently stroked one, with a photograph proudly mounted in the visitor centre
Switch off entirely
Yoga and I have a complex relationship. My brain enjoys the idea of it, my inflexible body has other ideas.
I end up doing yoga at the beach, the hotel (Hotel Indigo) and an impressive studio at Vida.
The teacher uses sound bowls which is way more up my street. It’s almost yoga for lazy people – I just lay back, let the sound wash over me and completely switch off.
I’ve been told I have found my inner yogi. I’m not convinced, but along with the sound bowls, I do enjoy the breathing exercises – especially when at the beach and studio, sucking in that fresh sea breeze.
How to do it: Kiristen took two sessions at Hotel Indigo and Vida has a wonderful seaview studio.
What I lack the yoga skills, I make up for in beach activities. Indeed, I love nothing more than a barefoot run on a beach.
Hotel Indigo is set ever so slightly away from the beach, but only a few minutes walk away (and near a great cocktail spot called Bonny Moon).
But cocktails are for later. I power walk the beach. I jump into the warm sea. This is the Caribbean dream.
How to do it: Just find yourself a great spot on the beautiful Seven Mile Beach. There’s plenty to go around.
Morning ritual: A stroll along seven-mile beach was a morning routine – and yoga at Vida was blissful
Eat and drink like a king
There are no Michelin star restaurants on the Caymans. But to be frank, it doesn’t matter – it is a culinary delight.
Some of the highlights included arriving at Rum Point via boat to try the Mudslide cocktail where it was invented.
Fresh tuna at Morgan’s, a tasting menu at Rasa in the Hotel Indigo, a spicy margarita cocktail at the Ritz, and a lobster roll at Fresca, all equally delicious.
Shoutout here to the Hotel Indigo, with two fabulous breakfast options – a casual take out spot called Cafe Alula, and a more formal place called Catalina.
Meanwhile, the jewel in the crown of this new hotel is its cocktail bar, Pom Pom, on the 10th floor. When I visited on a Friday night, it was clearly the place to be.
How to do it: Rum Point – 46 Sand Point Rd; Morgan’s – Governors Creek; Rasa – 32 Seafire Way; Ritz-Carlton – Seven Mile Beach; Fresca – 32 Country Corner.