REVIEW: Videos have circulated showing huge crowds in Oxford Street in the lead up to Christmas – but Senior Features Writer Layla Nicholson found a hidden and incredibly tasty retreat
If you’ve dared to venture into Oxford Street recently – often penned as the busiest shopping street in the world – then you’ll be familiar with the desperation to seek respite away from the swarm of sounds and crowds.
However, I recently discovered the antidote to Christmas shopping in central London. And it’s literally just tucked away on Portman Mews, just off of Oxford Street.
It’s easy to miss the venue, but it looks like we’ve all been missing out on Roti Chai – especially if you’re a fan of Indian food. It comes as scientists discovered that curries can help you stay fit thanks to one ‘special’ ingredient.
Roti Chai is split into two. The ground floor hosts the lively Street Food Kitchen, whereas the bottom floor is home to the plush Dining Room that provides a cosy but sophisticated atmosphere downstairs.
Walking into Roti Chai instantly made me, my mouth and stomach excited to eat – but you’ll be tasting with your nostrils first.
The top floor is admittedly more laidback, somewhere for a brief meal and catch-up with a mate over a curry and a beer.
I ventured downstairs for a menu that’s more refined and boasts an array of flavours, twists and spins on some much-loved curry classics.
But first, a drink.
And you might be shocked to hear I veered away from the beer – a perhaps bold choice for Brits who religiously pair curry with a lager.
This is a refined experience of Indian dining so I’ll leave the Cobra for a cocktail instead.
Keeping on trend and to prep my palate, I go for the Spicy Maza Margarita. It certainly gave me a nice little kick into the realm of heat for the rest of the night.
As someone who regularly reviews bars and restaurants, you’d think I’d be well-versed in choosing dishes off a menu.
That would be wrong.
And Roti Chai certainly made it hard – only because the menu provided an eclectic mix that made me wish humans had evolved to the point of having two stomachs.
However, it was made easier thanks to the attentive staff – who were also competent with their gluten free offerings that made my dinner guest feel at ease.
So, let’s tuck in.
To start, the Chilli Garlic Prawns, Mango Cumin Salmon and Chicken Momos. I’m not one to usually associate fish with Indian food so my interest was piqued.
The seasonal special salmon paired the sweetness of the mango with the earthy taste of the cumin and turmeric. It was the surprising standout from the three choices.
On the topic of choices, it was time to pick the main. There’s a healthy selection of regional dishes – starting from £12.50 – that you most probably wouldn’t find on the menu of your local.
It is like an adventure through the diverse cuisines of India with not a masala – that actually originated from South Asian cooks in Britain – in sight.
To honour the relationship between us and the recommendation of the waiter, I went with the Awadhi lamb which is a “slow cooked Elwy Valley Welsh lamb shoulder with a rich saffron & star anise sauce.”
It’s a delicious ode to the Indian and British cuisine love affai
The lamb came happily drenched in the aromatic sauce, only adding to the already flavoursome meat that melted in my mouth.
Ordering lamb always runs the risk of becoming a chew-fest. But this was gladly not the case.
It wouldn’t be a proper Indian spread without some bread, rice and dips. The imli, or tamarind, chutney gave the go-to mango a run for its money.
Its flavour is more intense and tangy, and acts as the perfect sauce to be cleaned up by the last of the naan.
Usually the bulkiness and richness of curry, bread and rice leaves me feeling like I need to unbutton the top of the jeans.
That wasn’t the case here. While the food was rich, it wasn’t oily or greasy.
And this means there was a smidge of space for dessert. Now, I’m usually one to avoid dessert and especially after an Indian meal for reasons outlined above.
The standout Malai cheesecake, though? How could I say no.
Malai is a type of Indian clotted cream so if I wasn’t already completely full, a few mouthfuls of the mango decorated dessert would make sure of that.
If you’re one for sharing your deserts then I would recommend you ask for two spoons and attack it as a duo. The only thing I wished for was more room in my stomach and more time on the clock as dinner finished at 10pm.
Roti Chai provided top tier service, both attentive and personable, while delivering drinks and food crafted with thought and purpose to create a twist on familiar curry flavours.
Whether you’re Christmas shopping and in need of an escape, or want to dine out in Marylebone to try something different then Roti Chai should be top of your list.
Roti Chai’s Street Kitchen is open Mon-Sun and the Dining Room is open Tues-Sun, with happy hour between 3-7pm.