OPINION: Nima Safaei runs three restaurants in London and has now published his own cookbook, At Home with Nima. I tried his Italian dishes at the exclusive launch event at 40 Dean Street in Soho – here’s what I thought
As if running three restaurants across London wasn’t sufficient, acclaimed chef Nima Safaei has now released his own cookbook, At Home with Nima. To mark the occasion, he hosted an exclusive launch party at his 40 Dean Street establishment, dishing up genuine Italian fare with a homemade twist.
Welcoming as you’d anticipate from a thriving restaurateur and brimming with charisma, Nima invited guests into the intimate Soho location for a four-course journey. The concept behind the cookbook is straightforward – cuisine doesn’t require complexity to be scrumptious, or “extraordinary”, as Nima describes it. As evidence, we’re presented with a hazelnut, bean and beetroot salad to begin.
It might sound uncomplicated, because it is – the beetroot is freshly sliced and the hazelnuts served intact. But everything combines beautifully; the natural sweetness of the beetroot complementing the richness of the beans.
Following this comes a crab linguine. Wine matches accompany each dish, and for the seafood course it’s a Gavi di Gavi DOCG II Rochin, reports the Express.
I won’t claim to be a wine connoisseur, but the white pairs delightfully with the fresh pasta, and while the linguine itself isn’t extraordinary, it’s thoroughly enjoyable.
The third course – or secondi piatti – features herb-crusted rack of lamb cutlets, accompanied by hassleback potatoes, wilted spinach and baby carrots. Now I’ve never really been a lamb enthusiast, but I reckon after this experience I’m a complete convert.
The herbs lend a minty, almost fiery kick to the succulent meat, and the entire dish arrives with a red wine jus that pairs beautifully with the meal. The meat course was undoubtedly the standout for me, and something I’d absolutely order again without hesitation.
There are two options for pudding – a pistachio tiramisu or a berry panna cotta. I plump for the latter, which marries sharp fruit with silky vanilla for a delightful finale to a superb meal.
So, what did I discover from Nima? I discovered that occasionally, keeping things straightforward works best. There were no flashy gimmicks here, no blazing plates or dry ice shrouding the table in mist.
There were no complex guidelines to follow when tackling the dish, as I’ve encountered in some contemporary restaurants that try to be avant-garde. No, Nima’s creations were presented with passion, but they also seemed like dishes I could possibly whip up at home.
As the proprietor of 40 Dean Street, along with 27 Old Compton Street and 64 Old Compton Street, Nima is certainly well-placed to write a cookbook. Anticipate his trademark charisma, featuring straightforward yet scrumptious recipes to have a go at.
At Home with Nima is available to order now.
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