OPINION: I visited a Soho Italian hotspot and from the cosy decor to indulgent pasta and a laid-back atmosphere, felt like I’d escaped the hustle and bustle of London for the evening
I stepped through the doors of 40 Dean Street for a midweek evening feast – and within minutes, the hectic pace of London seemed to disappear.
There are restaurants where you go for dinner, and then there are places that make an evening feel like an occasion. 40 Dean Street was firmly in the second camp. Tucked away in the heart of Soho, the family-run Italian restaurant has been a local institution for more than two decades. But despite being surrounded by the usual London hustle and bustle, stepping through its doors felt like entering a little slice of Italy.
The decor was homely and the atmosphere is warm and inviting, while the staff were friendly from the moment we arrived. We kicked things off with cocktails and ordered a coconut and pineapple cooler, which was wonderfully refreshing, before moving on to the serious business of food.
Our starters were the mozzarella garlic bread and pan-fried tiger prawns with shellfish and brandy sauce. Both were delicious, but the prawns were one of my highlights of the entire meal.
And yes, there is a confession to make. We absolutely dipped the garlic bread into the leftover shellfish and brandy sauce. Was it technically elegant? Perhaps not. Was it absolutely delicious? Without question.
For mains, we opted for two pasta dishes to share. The lobster spaghetti came packed with fresh lobster meat, while the beef ragu pappardelle delivered the rich, comforting flavours you want from a proper Italian pasta dish
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Pasta is very much at the heart of 40 Dean Street’s menu, with the restaurant making its pasta fresh by hand each day. The menu takes inspiration from different regions of Italy and Mediterranean cooking, while also making use of ingredients sourced from nearby Soho businesses.
Then came dessert – and, naturally, we couldn’t resist, despite there being no room left to accommodate it.
We shared the salted caramel cheesecake with pistachio ice cream and the chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. Both were indulgent without feeling like too much after our meal.
What I loved most, though, was how relaxed the whole evening felt. We enjoyed a bottle of Pinot whilst chatting for hours over the candle-lit table.
There was something wonderfully decadent about the experience, but without any stuffiness. It felt like Italian decadence meeting the energy of London.
40 Dean Street was originally purchased by founder and executive chef Nima Safaei with the intention of opening a bar, but he fell in love with the Italian restaurant already occupying the site. Alongside his sister, who grew up in Florence, he transformed that love of Italian food and culture into the Soho institution it is today.
And after my Monday night visit, I can see exactly why it has endured.
The moment you walk through those doors, the pace winds down, the food arrives and you simply feel at ease.
To book a table, visit https://www.fortydeanstreet.com/book-a-table
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