What a truffle kerfuffle! Foragers in feud over secret dig websites and rival fungus festivals
It is supposed to be a sedate hobby enjoyed in the tranquil English countryside.
But the world of foraging has found itself rocked by a bitter war between two of Britain’s leading truffle hunters.
Melissa Waddingham, whose family has hunted truffles for generations, claims her ‘protege’, Ben Sweet, a former marketing consultant, has hijacked her expertise to set up on his own.
She has also accused him of one of the gravest crimes in the world of foraging – stealing her secret truffle spots.
The feud came to a head when the UK Truffle Festival in Hickstead, West Sussex – which is run by Mr Sweet – was held last weekend, just one week before Miss Waddingham’s Great British Truffle Festival in nearby Plumpton.
His festival attracted hundreds of visitors last Saturday. As a result, Miss Waddingham says, ticket sales for her Great British Truffle Festival, to be held tomorrow, have been well down on what she was expecting.
Ms Waddingham, who has appeared on BBC Countryfile and Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch, said she was ‘absolutely devastated and heartbroken’ when she discovered the clash.
‘I passed my knowledge on to Ben, showing him how to train dogs, where to hunt for truffles and leading him to the best and most prized truffle spots in Sussex,’ she added.
Melissa Waddingham’s family has hunted truffles for generations
Ben Sweet, a former marketing consultant who went bankrupt in 2020, said he decided on a career change after Covid
‘I feel he has taken that knowledge and used it to usurp my position. It’s very, very upsetting.’
Ms Waddingham, a member of the British Mycological Society and Association of British Foragers, said: ‘I learnt what I know by going out foraging for chanterelles with my grandfather in France when I was a child in Champagne, France.’
Mr Sweet, a former marketing consultant who went bankrupt in 2020, said he decided on a career change after Covid.
He maintained he had been interested in foraging and truffling for several years and linked up with Ms Waddingham in 2022. Together they co-founded and successfully ran the UK Truffle Festival for foragers and mushroom fans.
However, the pair parted ways amid a difference of opinion over the direction the festival was taking, deciding to each host a separate event.
Mr Sweet retained the festival name and launched a podcast and YouTube channel, as well as setting himself up as a full-time dog trainer.
He said: ‘I learned from many people and experiences on my way into truffle hunting and dog training, and Melissa was one of the influences along that path.
‘I’ve always been open about my intentions and feel grateful for everyone who has helped me grow, but the foundations of my work were in place long before we collaborated.
‘When it became clear we weren’t a good fit as business partners, I tried to handle things openly and fairly so we could both move forward in our own ways.
Dogs take part in Truffle Challenges: The world of foraging has found itself rocked by a bitter war between two of Britain’s leading truffle hunters
‘There was never any attempt to take anything from her, just a desire for an honest and respectful separation.’
‘We chose our festival date in January, and I have documented evidence showing exactly how that process unfolded. We adjusted it only to avoid both festivals landing on the same day. It was an honest scheduling decision, not an attempt to undermine her in any way.’
Mr Sweet disputed the claim he continued to use secret truffle spots introduced to him by Ms Waddingham.
He said: ‘Once you have independently identified a woodland as suitable for truffles, being taken there by someone later does not make it their territory. No one can own a wild truffle site.
‘The places in question are not secret in the truffle community.’
Ms Waddingham, who has also appeared on Food Unwrapped and Marcus Wareing’s Tales From A Kitchen Garden, said: ‘It is very upsetting we’ve become embroiled this way as it has always been my aim to be inclusive, sharing knowledge and bringing the community together not dividing it.’
